Central Park in spring. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
NYC has five boroughs, but Manhattan steals the spotlight. This is where you’ll find all the must-sees: the biggest museums, best theater, top-rated restaurants and acclaimed historic sites. Whether it’s your first visit or your 50th, there’s always something new to explore. Take it from me: I’ve lived here for 15 years, written multiple Lonely Planet guidebooks on NYC, and still find myself surprised by the borough’s ever-evolving landscape.
This itinerary starts with a crash course in NYC history so you can appreciate what’s to come throughout the weekend. You’ll see a mix of heavy-hitter destinations and under-the-radar spots, so you can get a feel for the city’s rhythm. New York is nonstop, and you will be, too, so grab a coffee and get ready to roll.
When to arrive: Arrive on Thursday or Friday morning and stay for three nights. Seasonally, this guide is best between April and late October, when walking outside is pleasant. It also works in winter – just come prepared with warm clothing.
How to get from the airport: You’ve got options ranging from $ to $$$. Here’s our full breakdown of how to get to and from NYC’s three main airports: JFK, LGA and EWR.
Getting around town: New York is a pedestrian town, and this itinerary is tailor-made for walking. If you’re traveling long distances between neighborhoods, hop on the subway – or possibly a Citi Bike, if you feel confident braving NYC’s traffic.
Where to stay: For budget-friendly lodging, choose the Jane Hotel – a historic West Village spot from 1908 with ship cabin-sized rooms. It’s on a romantic side street in one of Manhattan’s most walkable neighborhoods. If you want lots of public transit options, try the Midtown boutique hotel Romer. It’s a few blocks from tons of trains at Columbus Circle, making commuting a breeze. If you have more money to burn, book a room at SoHo’s immaculately designed Crosby Street Hotel. It’s walking distance from most downtown neighborhoods, including the Lower East Side and the West Village.
What to pack: Bring layers, as weather can be temperamental. Wear sneakers, since you’ll be stomping down sidewalks, not runways. Dress in smart-casual attire. Being comfortable is key, but you shouldn’t wear gym clothes to classy cocktail clubs or the theater.
Day 1: Upper East Side, Upper West Side and Midtown
Morning
Start your day with pancakes from Lexington Candy Shop, an Upper East Side institution since 1925. Doors open at 7am on weekdays – arrive early or prepare to wait. This family-run luncheonette is a star of NYC’s swivel-stool scene.
Satiated, hoof it to Fifth Avenue and walk north. In the early 20th century, flamboyant mansions built along this strip earned it the nickname Millionaires’ Row. Admire the architecture – a hodgepodge of classical European styles with a modern American standout: the Guggenheim, Frank Lloyd Wright’s inverted ziggurat from 1939.
It might feel tempting to stop at the massive Metropolitan Museum of Art, but today’s destination should be the Museum of the City of New York. Watch the 28-minute movie Timescapes, chronicling 400 years of NYC history, for a better understanding of the city you’re exploring.
How to spend the day
With the sun shining, skip to the Upper West Side via Central Park. Enter near the Conservatory Garden – a series of tranquil paths with pretty plantings – and venture west toward the turtle-packed pool around 103rd St and Central Park West. Reward your hike with a square-cut pizza slice from Mama’s TOO. The soppressata-dotted Angry Nonna is a fan favorite.
Next stop is the free-to-visit Nicholas Roerich Museum – a little-known gem showcasing Russian painter Roerich’s Himalayan landscapes, painted in rich purples and blues. Even if you don’t care for the art, you can admire the building: a three-floor townhouse, the envy of apartment dwellers all over town.
Dinner
Hop on a train to Times Square and refuel with authentic Mexican at Los Tacos No. 1 on 43rd St. Get tacos with grilled meat or nopal (cactus) and ask for “con todo” (with everything), then chow down at one of the standing counters. If you’re feeling naughty, order the off-menu queso taco: a disc of fried cheese serves as the tortilla.
After dark
Showtime awaits. If you’ve never seen a Broadway musical, check what swept the most recent Tony Awards and nab a ticket. (I usually find seats via the TodayTix app.) If you’re interested in edgier artistry, scan the schedule at Off-Broadway’s Playwrights Horizons, known for celebrating up-and-coming writers and Broadway-caliber performers.
Grab a nightcap once the curtain comes down. If you’re craving a recession-proof pilsner, go to Rudy’s for $4 draughts. If you’re going for swanky craft cocktails, try something mixed with egg whites at Pebble Bar.
The Village Vanguard is an iconic spot to see jazz. Dan Herrick/Lonely Planet
Day 2: Chelsea and the West Village
Morning
It’s sacrilegious to visit NYC and not bite into a bagel. Get an early start with a bagel sandwich from Kossar’s Bagels and Bialys on 30th St, then beat the crowds to the High Line, an elevated railroad track transformed into a linear park. Enter at 30th St and walk south, admiring views of contemporary constructions like the bulbous windows of Lantern House and Little Island, the hilly garden rising from the Hudson River.
How to spend the day
Upon reaching the High Line’s southern terminus, step inside the Whitney Museum of American Art and head to the seventh-floor permanent collection. It’s a Who’s Who of celebrated modern artists who spent time in NYC, including Andy Warhol, Edward Hopper, Paul Cadmus and George O’Keeffe.
Leave before museum fatigue sets in and stroll the West Village’s charming streets. If shopping is your thing, skip down Bleecker St to peek inside stores like Zuri (flowy femme dresses made with African prints) and Corridor (masc fits like chunky plaid shirts). End at St. Jardim, a coffee-and-wine bar on a pretty West Village corner with outdoor seating – a scenic spot to watch the city’s sidewalk ballet.
Dinner
The West Village is stacked with quality restaurants requiring reservations. Try your luck at Michelin-starred Semma, a spicy South Indian spot where you’re obligated to order the gunpowder dosa. Bookings open two weeks in advance on Resy. It’s always packed, so plan a back-up – possibly Loring Place, a five-minute walk away. Make a meal of the small veggie-forward plates. You could also skip the reservation rigmarole and queue up for pizza slices from L’Industrie on Christopher St. Neighboring beer bar Talea lets diners bring their slices inside while sipping brews.
After dark
Keep things cool. Snag tickets to hear jazz at the Village Vanguard, an intimate West Village institution where trumpet players started trilling in 1935. Make it gay. The West Village is Manhattan’s historic LGBTIQ+ epicenter. There’s always a drag show at Pieces, and nearby Julius’ is one of the city’s oldest gay bars – an unpretentious institution famous for a 1966 Sip-In protesting gay discrimination.
Day 3: East Village, the Lower East Side, Chinatown and SoHo
Morning
Begin at Scandi-style Smør Bakery with an aioli-smothered AEC (avocado, egg and cheese) and dig in at one of the outside tables. Once you’re done, walk south through the East Village and into the Lower East Side (LES) to reach Orchard St – a fashionable, boutique-lined thoroughfare. Peer in shop windows on your way to the Tenement Museum, where docents guide visitors on tours of historically restored tenement homes. It offers a glimpse into LES immigrant life at the turn of the 20th century.
How to spend the day
Eat your way through Chinatown, starting with a cup of Fong On’s creamy tofu pudding. Next up is Fu Zhou Wei Zhong Wei Jia Xiang Feng Wei (which translates to "the tastiest Fuzhou hometown-flavor restaurant") – a buns-and-dumplings counter tucked into the lower level of East Broadway Mall. Ignore its sketchy-looking hallways – the dumplings are dynamite. Finish at Mei Lai Wah with a pineapple pork or custard bun. Order on the digital kiosk inside and nosh while skipping into SoHo (South of Houston).
Turn the rest of your afternoon into an art-and-apparel tour. Wander around Canal Street Market’s curated selection of clothes and knick-knacks, then take advantage of SoHo’s free gallery spaces. In the 1970s and ‘80s, SoHo was the epicenter of NYC’s art scene. A handful of holdouts remain, like the Drawing Center, showcasing exhibits primarily dedicated to works on paper. My favorite: The New York Earth Room at 141 Wooster St, filled with 280,000 pounds of dirt. The wacky second-floor installation has been around since 1980. Ring the buzzer to enter.
Dinner
Thai Diner is my go-to in Nolita (North of Little Italy, neighboring SoHo). It infuses classic NY diner style with a big Bangkok energy, best encapsulated in the massaman curry-smothered disco fries. Order the vegan baan salad and a turkey-stuffed cabbage roll, and save room for dessert – a coconut sundae piled high with whipped cream. Arrive before the dinner rush or expect to wait roughly 30 minutes for a table. If Thai Diner doesn’t work out, try Superiority Burger in the East Village – another diner-inspired restaurant serving plant-based fare with punk-rock flavor.
After dark
Walk five minutes to LES speakeasy-style bar Attaboy to quaff expertly mixed bespoke cocktails. Wait times can be long, so consider alternatives – be it next-door sister bar Good Guy's or sexy wine den Ten Bells.
End your weekend on a high note with a neo-vaudeville performance at the Slipper Room nearby. If it’s Saturday, stay up late for the midnight variety show Stage Time. On Sunday, make it an early evening with the 8:30pm burlesque show.
Rainy day contingency plan
If it’s downpouring all day, spend your time inside one of NYC’s art behemoths: go classical at the Met or modern at MoMA. Once you’re done, take the ferry to Governors Island and pamper yourself at QC Spa New York, overlooking Manhattan’s steely towers.