Split: Itineraries

A Top Day in Split

I awake in Trogir, the delightful UNESCO-rated gem of a village. Though it's 26km (16mi) from central Split, it's just a mere 5km (3mi) hop from Split airport so proves ideal for my first night in the area. After a leisurely coffee on top of the Sv Marko fortress tower and a stroll around the magnificent old town I'll hop on the 37 bus to Split.

Cute pedestrian alleyways lined with old stone houses lead me to tonight's accommodation tucked away in Split's timeless Varoš district. Having deposited my bag, I'll take a short, inspiring climb up pine-dappled Marjan Hill with obligatory refreshment stop en route at Café Vidilica for fabulous city and bay panoramas. Descending back into the centre, I might grab a joyously cheap and cheerful Čevapčići (Yugoslavian sausage) at Caffe Dioklecian (Dosud 9), an uncompromising local bar whose terrace is nestled right within a 1700-year-old portal-window of Diocletian's Palace. There's plenty of time to climb St Dujo's church tower, discover 'hidden' chapels or potter through the palace's Roman basement halls before indulging in what Split does best: cafe culture.

Later in the afternoon I'll join the throng on the Riva (Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda), Split's palm-shaded promenade that's uncannily reminiscent of Nice. Then as dusk falls follow the see-and-be-seen stroll-fest along pedestrianised Marmontova (the architecturally lacklustre 'fashion street') to the ornate HNK theatre (www.hnk-split.hr) which offers superb-value opera performances and concerts.

For a sea-front dinner many locals favour the Bačvice complex. However, I much prefer the gently suave Restoran Adriatic (www.Adriatic-graso.com) at the ACI Marina. Prices aren't exorbitant and the views from its wraparound terrace are phenomenal.

My favourite mid-evening terraced bar is Caffe Gaga on Iza Lože, a delightful little square hidden behind magical Narodni Trg. If rain threatens, I'll head instead for the almost psychedelic Ghetto Club. As the night wears on, youthful drinkers congregate beside the Slavija Hotel where Puls2 pumps fat beats into the sultry night air. But I prefer the mellower cafe atmosphere along Majstora Jurja and Carrarina poljana. Now, I just need to remember where my guesthouse was!

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