A first-time guide to the Okavango Delta

Seen from above, the Okavango Delta clutches like a claw at the map of Africa. Where its talons cling to the Kalahari Desert, Okavango green meets Kalahari yellow. 

The Okavango Delta is a world in motion. The aftermath of January rains in Angola’s distant highlands funnel down through the Okavango Panhandle, reaching the Delta in March. There, upon an extraordinarily flat terrain and faced with an absence of meaningful obstacles, the waters fan out across the Delta like a slow-motion tsunami, until, finally, they come to a halt. As the Delta’s waters rise and fall at the behest of rains that fell far from here and months before, distinctions between land and water blur, the boundaries between them never quite the same from one season to the next.

More than 200,000 large mammals, nearly 500 bird species call the Okavango home. And for those on safari, it is an adventure waiting to happen.

If this is your first time on safari, or just your first time in the Delta, it couldn’t be easier, at least if you’ve saved up big for that Botswana specialty: the exclusive, luxurious fly-in safari. Far cheaper, but requiring a more adventurous spirit, the self-drive safari is the ultimate in safari freedom. Botswana does both wonderfully well. And if this is your first time here, it’s unlikely to be your last.

When should I go to the Okavango Delta?

The Okavango Delta is at its best from May to September. This is when water levels are highest, skies are clear and temperatures are mild (or even cool in the evening in June and July). These dry season months also correspond with much of the high season (July to October), when prices are at their highest and availability in the lodges and tented camps of the Delta is harder to come by. All of this means that the shoulder season months of May and June can be excellent months to visit, with good weather and lower prices.

During the rest of the year, which is low or shoulder season (combined, these seasons are sometimes also called the green season), the weather can be unpredictable. That’s because the rains usually begin (and temperatures rise) in early November and continue through to March or April. Things are a little quieter in the Delta at this time, and some lodges even close in mid-January through to February or March. Water levels are often insufficient for excursions by mokoro (dugout canoe) at this time. It is a strange quirk of the Delta that water levels here have more to do with when the rains fall hundreds of kilometers away in the Angolan Highlands than when it rains in the Delta itself.

Apart from an absence of crowds, there are upsides to traveling in the Delta between November and April. For one, migratory bird species arrive in the region from Europe and North Africa in November and usually stick around until March or April. The landscapes here, too, are wonderful during and immediately after the rains.

How much time should I spend in the Okavango Delta?

Stay for as much time as you have and can afford – the Okavango Delta rewards those who stay long enough to explore more than one area. With just a few days to play with, you could fly into one of the Delta’s luxury tented camps or lodges, stay a few days and then return. At least you’d get a taste of what’s so special about this place. If you have a week, consider the same but staying in at least three different camps and flying between them. If you’re self-driving, in a week you could drive from Maun to Moremi Game Reserve or Khwai Community Concession, and move between a series of campsites before returning to Maun.

Ten days to two weeks will allow you to see the best that the Delta has to offer, whether you’re on a fly-in safari or self-driving. If you’re doing the latter, make sure you take a scenic flight out of Maun, and everyone should, if it’s available, ride in a hot-air balloon out over the Delta.

Is it easy to get in and around the Okavango Delta?

Maun, in northwestern Botswana, is the gateway to the Okavango Delta. Flights to Maun arrive from Johannesburg, Cape Town and other regional airports.

There are two main ways to get to and around the Delta. Most travelers fly into one of the Delta’s many airstrips in a small plane from Maun. From there, you’ll be transferred to your accommodation in an open-sided safari 4WD vehicle with tiered seating, or sometimes even by boat. Some of these concessions and accommodations can only be reached by air (although there will be a network of vehicle trails that your guide can take you along once you’re there).

The other option is to drive to Moremi Game Reserve in your own rented 4WD (usually with rooftop tent) along paved roads then unpaved tracks, usually from Maun; it’s also possible from Kasane via Chobe National Park and Khwai. Although there are many areas that you’ll be unable to reach by ‘road’, the Delta covers such a large area that there will still be more than enough accessible terrain to keep you busy for weeks.

Top things to do in the Okavango Delta

Fly-in Safari

For many African travelers, a fly-in safari into and around the Okavango Delta is the pinnacle of possible safari experiences. Imagine flying out of Maun Airport in a small plane, the Delta extending to the far horizon down below, then landing at an airstrip where a tented camp deep in the wilds of Botswana awaits. Most such tented camps are supremely luxurious, with just a handful of large, suited tents facing out over the water and surrounded by trees. An elephant may wander past while you sit on the terrace. Or a lion might roar nearby when you’re in bed after dark. By day you’ll explore some of the most wildlife-rich ecosystems on the planet. By night you’ll be treated like a king or queen, with fine dining and cocktails under the stars. And then imagine doing it all over again a few days later.

Mokoro Trips

One of the more special things to do while in the Okavango Delta is take to the water in a mokoro. These traditional wooden dugout canoes, punted by local polers, move slowly through the reed-lined channels of the Delta. Sometimes the only sound is the quiet slap of wood on water. If you’re lucky, an elephant or other large animal might come to the water’s edge to drink, or even swim to the other side. Maybe your guide will even spot a Pel’s fishing owl perched in the shadows of the high canopy.

It's true that you won’t be able to travel as far in a mokoro as you can in a 4WD vehicle or a motorized boat. And your chances of seeing lots of wildlife is certainly better on a game drive, so combine a mokoro with other forms of traveling around. But regardless of what you see, exploring in a mokoro has a timeless quality to it as you move around the Delta, free of engine noise and as locals have for centuries.

Take a Scenic Flight

Operating out of Maun airport, fixed-wing planes and helicopters fly across the Okavango Delta on scenic flights that showcase the region’s vast, wild beauty. Some flights are as quick as 15 minutes, allowing the briefest of glimpses, while others last more than an hour. Helicopters cost more, go further in the same amount of time and, for photographers, have the advantage of being able to open (or remove) the doors.

The view from above is exceptional, a vast horizon of greens and blues, with low-flying craft able to zero in on palm islands, ancient elephant tracks between waterholes and even individual animals.

The pilots of scenic flights know the most scenic routes. But if your safari includes one or more flight transfers to and between your camps and lodges, then take advantage and grab a window seat.

Explore on a Self-Drive Safari

Botswana is perfect for a self-drive safari. Yes, depending on the Delta’s water levels which change from year to year, you will be limited in how far you can reach on four wheels – parts of the Inner Delta will always be off-limits.

But it’s easy to access the Delta’s southern reaches, and a significant proportion of Moremi Game Reserve and Khwai Community Concession. These contain the same wildlife and almost identical scenery as you find in less accessible areas, and there should be hundreds of kilometers of trails to explore. There really is nothing like having the freedom to go where and when you want, setting up camp alongside the Delta’s waters, then sleeping safely on the roof of your vehicle surrounded by the night sounds of Africa.

My favorite thing to do in the Okavango Delta

There is nothing about visiting the Okavango Delta that doesn’t speak to my soul – the pristine wilderness, the abundant wildlife, the joy of people on safari, the healing power of the wild and natural world. But my happiest memories are of the days spent meandering along quiet waterside tracks in my own rented 4WD vehicle. The feelings of magic and wonder as I explore, without plan, without haste, without ever knowing which animal will cross my path and cause my heart to skip a beat. The scary thrill of lying atop my vehicle as a lion walks past, just meters away, roaring that deep-throated roar that I can feel in my bones. Bliss.

How much money do I need for the Okavango Delta?

If you’re visiting the Okavango Delta on an all-inclusive safari, the only money you’ll need to bring will be dollars or euros for purchases in accommodation gift shops (although most will accept credit cards when they can get a connection), and for tips for drivers, guides and camp staff. How much you tip is up to you, but as a general guideline, US $10 per traveler per day is a good starting point. Most lodges and tented camps have a communal tipping box that staff share equally.

If you’re self-driving, you’ll need to stock up on fuel and other supplies in Maun. In supermarkets and in petrol (gas) stations, you can usually pay with a credit card. Once in the Delta, you should have no further costs, assuming you’ve already paid for your rental vehicle and campsite bookings.

Sample costs include:

• All-inclusive safari per person per day: $$ BWP2768-69212  (US$200-5000)

• Campsite: $$ BWP138 (US$10)

• Hiring a car/4WD per day: $$ BWP1384-2768 (US$100/200)

• One week’s supplies at Maun supermarket: $$ BWP1384-3460 (US$100-250)

• Flights from Maun to accommodation airstrip: around $$ BWP2076 one-way (US$150)

Things you should know about the Okavango Delta

Is the Okavango Delta safe?

Botswana is an extremely safe country to visit. Crime and road accidents are rare, although you should avoid ostentatious displays of valuables and never leave valuables in vehicles while in Maun. In the Delta itself, crime is almost nonexistent.

The greatest threat to your safety may come from your inexperience in driving a 4WD in unfamiliar conditions if you’re on a self-drive safari. Consider taking a 4WD-driving course before you set out, and always take special care and keep your speed down whenever you drive, especially on unpaved roads.

If you’re camping, remember that camping areas are unfenced and wild animals often wander through. Avoid walking alone after dark in such places, and always carry a torch. If you’re staying in one of the Delta’s tented camps, these are also often unfenced, but a (sometimes-armed) staff member or security guard will usually escort you around the property after dark.

Visa on Arrival

Obtaining a visa on arrival is usually hassle-free at Maun Airport, although queues can be long if a couple of flights arrive at the same time. Bring US$30 in cash to pay for the visa.