A first-time guide to the city of Tromsø

Sitting over 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, you might think Tromsø isn’t a place for the faint of heart but this Norwegian city is surprisingly cosmopolitan for its gaudy latitude (there’s a reason they call it the "Paris of the North"). 

Many visit for natural phenomena like the northern lights and midnight sun but there’s plenty to do here when not peering at the sky. From rural reindeer feeding with traditional Sámi herders to Arctic fishing trips in Tromsø’s spectacular fjords, the activities here are unique to this wild and fascinating region. 

Here’s everything you need to know about Tromsø. 

When should I go to Tromsø?

Tromsø’s extreme location means its seasons are particularly distinct, especially winter and summer. 

If you’re interested in seeing the northern lights, then anytime between October and April can work. More specifically, late November to mid-January sees polar twilight where the sun remains below the horizon and there’s only a faint glow of light during the day.

Conversely, summer brings the warm glow of the midnight sun from late May to mid-July where activities can run all “night” long. 

The shoulder seasons are often the most highly recommended times to travel in Europe, but in Tromsø’s case it’s prudent to make the most of its special position and enjoy the extremes.

How much time should I spend in Tromsø?

If catching the northern lights is your priority, then a longer stay will give you a higher chance. However this isn’t a cheap destination, so most people stay no more than a week. Overall, I’d say around four days is about ideal. 

Rural activities mean there’s scope for day trips and drives, meaning you don’t need to limit yourself to this small city. Throw in boat cruises too and you’ll easily fill time in between viewing the night sky. 

Sámi Week in February is a great opportunity to learn about local Sámi culture, while music comes to Tromsø every August with the Tromsø Jazz Festival and RAKETTNATT, Northern Norway’s biggest music festival.

Is it easy to get in and around Tromsø?

Almost everyone traveling to Tromsø will arrive at Tromsø Airport. Airport Express buses leave for the city center regularly (you can’t miss their bright red paint job), while taxis are available too but are far more expensive. 

Tromsø is compact and very walkable, though you may want to take a bus if you’re planning on a wind-blasted walk across the bridge from the island to the mainland. Tickets for local buses can be purchased from ticket machines, the Svipper app or on board (note that this option is cash-only).

Top things to do in Tromsø

Try your hand at Arctic fishing

Tromsø’s waters might be freezing but they’re also home to a plethora of marine life including cod, herring, halibut, salmon and even basking shark. Several companies offer fishing trips out into the fjord with a chance to do a spot of Arctic fishing in good company, and sometimes with the promise of a hearty soup at the end. 

Just remember to pack top quality gloves, as line fishing in this bitter environment will seriously test your hand's thermal powers.

Dine beneath the northern lights

There’s no right or wrong way to see the northern lights, but one alluring experience is tucking into a meal beneath the stars (and hopefully lights). With its hybrid-electric engine turning silent as you pull out of Tromsø harbor, Brim Explorer's sustainable boats glide down the fjord and offer fresh locally-sourced meals alongside talks by the crew about the sky and wildlife.

And of course if the lights are visible, then the upper deck is always open for craning your neck skyward to the greatest light show on Earth. 

Find peace in a unique cathedral

Crossing the Tromsø Bridge brings some wonderful wind-whipped views but it also reveals the unmistakable modernist shape of the Arctic Cathedral. Constructed in 1965, its multilayered triangular design is reminiscent somewhat of the island of Håja, while inside its calming wooden panels are perfect for quiet reflection from the cold outside.

Spot some amazing wildlife

With quaint red wooden houses dotted alongside soaring mountains, the fjords are spectacular here and they’re populated by some equally splendid wildlife. Polar cruises depart daily with the chance to spot eagles flying high above while whales crash through the water below. Try to visit between October and January for the best chance to see whales. 

Soak up some stunning views

If the skies are clear, take the Fjellheisen cable car to see this cinematic landscape 421m above sea level. Not only is the scenery majestic, it’s also a great spot for seeing the northern lights. Other activities up here include snowshoe hikes and paragliding, while the Fellstua Café is a perfect rest stop for a coffee with a view. 

Sip on a very northern pint

Stepping down into Ølhallen's warm embrace is an exquisite break from the cold and it gets even better after your first sip of Norwegian beer. Tromsø’s oldest pub, Olhallenn has around 50 beers on tap of myriad varieties, including beers from local brewery Mack – the world's northernmost brewery. Good luck trying to avoid a selfie with the pub’s imposing taxidermy polar bear.

My favorite thing to do in Tromsø

The widescreen landscape here is enticing and being out at Tromsø Arctic Reindeer rural camp outside the city felt like I got to know this remote corner of Norway a whole lot better. Crunching across matted snow towards a floodlit scene of smoking tents and friendly reindeer, I felt like the stars had aligned that evening.

Inside the toasty warm tents (called Lavvus) I ate an unctuous reindeer stew before learning about the Sámi people’s deep heritage and traditions. Though the overcast night denied the northern lights from appearing, the opportunity to feed the reindeer and appreciate the warmth of the log fire with curious travelers from around the world was a magical experience. 

How much money do I need for the Tromsø?

• Hostel room: from 450kr (US$40)

• Basic room for two: from 1500kr (US$132)

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): from 1300kr (US$115)

• Public transport ticket: from 44kr(US$4)

• Coffee: 40-60kr (US$4-5)

• Sandwich: 120-140kr (US$10-12)

• Dinner for two: 1000kr (US$90)

• Beer/pint at the bar: 90kr (US$8)

What languages are spoken?

Norwegian is the primary language but the local’s English is impeccable (like most of Scandinavia) and you can easily get by this way. 

Will I see the Northern Lights?

There’s never any guarantee when it comes to the weather (I had to wait until my third night before the clouds finally parted), but with enough time here, the northern lights will eventually make an appearance.

What kind of clothes will I need?

At this latitude, summer will never be totally balmy so always pack an additional layer (and sunglasses, if you’re visiting for the 24-hour sun). 

In winter, make sure to pack thermals, a thick hat and sturdy waterproof shoes for walking through the snowy and slushy streets.