Local Flavor: where to eat and drink in Budapest

Budapest's gastronomic scene buzzes with paprika-laden Hungarian dishes updated for contemporary tastes, increasing international influences, and crumbling ruin bars. However, the Hungarian capital's culinary scene is in continuous flux; for every new and exciting restaurant, there’s another ruin bar bulldozed to make way for new development.

I've watched the city change over the decades. I spent part of my childhood here, as my Hungarian mother wanted me to learn the language. I eventually returned to reconnect with my roots and have called Budapest home for the past 10 years. The culinary scene is no exception to the city's evolving culture.

Hungarian food is traditionally heavy, often consisting of generous portions of meat, potatoes, paprika, and pork fat. That's why I am happy to see modern recipes or fusion styles reinterpreting the Hungarian classics, as Budapest’s gastronomic landscape has moved in a cosmopolitan direction (also good news for vegetarians and vegans).

Here are some spots I would take friends visiting the city for a weekend, along with a few favorites I visit regularly.

Breakfast

I’m biased toward Bartók Béla Boulevard in Buda, as I’ve lived in the XI District since moving back and have watched this area flourish over the decade. A local fixture is Kelet, a popular cafe and bar lined with used books you can exchange. It's one of my all-time favorite breakfast spots, and I often treat myself to their omelets filled with feta cheese and paprika jam, accompanied by homemade pickles. Over in Pest, The Garden Cafe, a new brunch place set in the ivy-clad courtyard garden and shabby-chic bar inside Brody House, serves delicious vegetarian Turkish-style breakfasts. I recommend the Triple Cheese Gözelme made with flaky filo, goat, Gouda, and cottage cheese, and herbs.

Coffee

Coffee is one of my vices, and I have to rein in my spending when I’m downtown, as there are so many specialty coffee houses. One of my regulars in Pest is Mantra, a cozy cafe on Veres Palné utca with their own roasters (I always buy beans from them), where I usually grab a flat white made with the light roast. Nearby, Fekete hides in a courtyard just off Astoria, serving coffee made with beans from another local roaster, Casino Mocca. It’s great for espresso. Head toward Parliament to Ohana for charming service, excellent cold brew, and coffee presented in gorgeous ceramics.

Lunch

Gettó Gulyás in the Jewish Quarter is where I'd recommend a Hungarian lunch for excellent value. They have a three-course menu on weekdays for under 3000 HUF (US$8) that changes daily (a la carte is also an option, but costs more), and food is promptly served so you can be in-and-out in less than an hour. Make sure you book, as there's always a line when they open up.

I’d take visiting friends to Rosenstein if I wanted to wow them. This Hungarian-Jewish restaurant close to Keleti train station in the VIII District is one of the best in town — try their matzo ball soup or the duck. Holocaust-survivor Tibor Rosenstein opened this family restaurant as the chef in 1996. His son Robi has taken over since, and it’s a fixture on Budapest’s gastronomic scene.

On the Buda side, Róma Ételbár, a small restaurant with a street-side terrace close to the base of Castle Hill in the I District, is ideal for some traditional home-style Hungarian food (the place was around since 1990, closed but reopened). You can get gulyás soup (goulash) here, but in the summer, try the lecsó, a Hungarian ratatouille with sausage and egg (in my opinion, the best in town).

Aperitivo

I love a cocktail before dinner and Budapest is the perfect place to indulge. The Duchess on the rooftop of the Matild Palace Hotel is where I’d go to watch the sunset, with its west-facing riverside panorama overlooking the surrounding rooftops, Gellért Hill, and Elizabeth Bridge with excellent craft cocktails. However, when I want to show friends something special, we'll grab a seat under the Art Nouveau arcade of the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel in Múzsa. This cocktail bar presents a bespoke menu inspired by artists like Keith Harring, Frida Kahlo, and Henri Matisse, presented with plenty of drama and a burst of flavors.

When I want a glass of wine, Bortodoor is my pick, a cozy wine bar in the VI District run by welcoming and passionate wine lovers eager to teach you everything about Hungarian wine (go for their tasting menus and let them pick out the wines tailored to you).

Dinner

Pierrot on Castle Hill serves Hungarian-French fusion in a former 13th-century bakery with a fairy-lit walled garden for a romantic dinner. The menu changes seasonally, but you’ll find updated Hungarian classics year-round, like chicken paprikás with sour cream foam.

Alternatively, Mazel Tov in the Jewish Quarter is ideal for a dinner with friends before a night out, with sharable Middle Eastern mezze platters (great hummus and spiced grill dishes) in a ruin bar setting with a Mediterranean touch.

It's challenging to find a good place for dinner without booking, but I find street food comes to the rescue. In the case of Bors GasztroBár, also in the Jewish Quarter, you’ll eat well. Bors is great for a quick bite, with inventive soups and crunchy baguette sandwiches, or chilled soups made with Mars bars, along with more conventional options like jalapeno chili. I'll order their pulled pork baguette or the French Lady (with chicken, Edam, and raspberry-onion jam), but there are many others, including vegan options.

Bar

Szimpla Kert in the Jewish Quarter may feel like a cliche to recommend, but it’s for a good reason: It’s Budapest’s first and most famous ruin bar. Stepping inside transports you into a surreal wonderland and is a must-visit on any trip to Budapest. They've also embraced their countercultural roots and host bohemian events with local creatives like life drawing, exhibitions, and micro-theater, so I often find myself here.

However, for an alternative, try Élesztő, a ruin bar set in a former glass factory in the VIII District, where you can get more than a dozen Hungarian craft beers on tap (in the summer, their fruit beers, like the Mango IPA, is a refreshing choice).