Twenty years ago, the New Nordic Food Manifesto kicked off the idea of local and sustainable dining. Experimental fine-dining chefs came to Copenhagen in their droves.
Today, the capital of Denmark is a serious foodie city – that’s why I love working as a food and travel writer here – But its diverse scene owes everything to those culinary pioneers.
New Nordic feels less fresh and surprising these days, but there is still a lot to revel in: a riot of Italian restaurants; new neon-lit Asian eateries; an ever-experimental bakery scene to name but a few. Fine dining is still good for a splurge – Geranium, noma (which closes its doors in winter 2024), Alchemist and Kong Hans Kælder are just four of the world’s most highly-starred, highly-rated places to eat – but there’s also plenty to find if you don’t have a rich uncle’s credit card at your disposal.
Here’s where I eat in Copenhagen with my friends.
Breakfast
I get excited about the trends in Copenhagen’s bakery scene, especially in spring. In the run-up to Lent, they go all out to create the most extravagant Shrovetide buns – fastelavnsboller – mixing all kinds of traditional and modern techniques. I’ll queue down the street in the rain to get hold of the pillowy cakes at Juno in particular.
Another recent bakery trend has been the humble cheese roll. Bakeries have been competing to create the best bun, the best whipped butter and the best cheese to pair it with. It sounds simple – but doing simple well is complicated! Swing by Hart for a cheese roll. Their Holmen location is the best, though they have a series of outposts all over the city. The bakery, part-owned by noma, sells the best sourdough bread in the city.
Brunch
Brunch is huge in Copenhagen. It’s so popular that if you don't book in advance you can struggle to get a table. The traditional Danish brunch plate is a tapas-like selection of bites including potato salad, mini sausages, eggs, Danish cheeses, croissants, berries, and delicious bread. One of my favorite fresh takes on it is at Union Kitchen, with avocado and feta, rye bread, Greek yogurt, waffles, and smoked salmon sharing the plate. You’ll also find vegetarian options, friendly servers and day-long dining options.
At the edge of the city’s new Carlsberg area, Cadence also serves a great brunch in a bright space where the eggs benedict come piled high on a tall English breakfast muffin. Its drinks menu features smoothies, bone broths and golden lattes, too. Afterward, wander up the hill to discover the part of the city built by the Carlsberg family. There’s also a new beer museum, the Home of Carlsberg, which also touches on their history.
Coffee
I like to get out and see the city and hear what’s going on, so I hold coffee meetings nearly every day of the week. I’m a regular at Roast, just down the street from my office. They have great coffee and fun staff. I also like the sleek Danish chain Coffee Collective. There’s a branch at the revived food market Torvehallerne where you can sit and sip coffee while watching people. I like to browse the food stalls and flower market, too.
Lunch
I am most regularly found having meetings in Apollo Bar during the day – it’s attached to Kunsthal Charlottenburg in the most touristed part of town, Nyhavn, but you wouldn’t know it when you’re in its quiet courtyard. I recommend the banana bread.
Across the street from Torvehallerne, you should try a smørrebrød from Selma. They do modern takes on Denmark’s traditional open-faced sandwich, which usually has rye bread piled high with a variety of toppings. If you’re going all out, order the herring and add a shot of snaps (aquavit), though my favorite dish is their Faroese smoked salmon with zesty yuzu.
Alternatively, jump on a bike like a local and cycle to Apotek 57, an airy and elevated cafe housed in the chic Frama store. Run by chef Chiara Barla, it serves delicious pasta, bread, quiche and seasonal vegetable-led dishes. It’s also only a short stroll from Rosenborg Castle or the Marble Church should you fancy walking off your lunch afterward.
Dinner
Always book ahead for dinner. Seriously. This is not a city where you can just walk into a restaurant – you need to secure a spot a week or so beforehand. I love to eat with my friends at Jah Izakaya, a Japanese pub with the best carpaccio I’ve ever tasted. It’s supposed to be a sharing plate but I always get one just for myself. I also like Kappo Andō, a cool Tokyo-styled bar where Japanese food is cooked in front of your eyes.
If you want to eat at one of the Michelin-starred restaurants like Alchemist, you’ll need to book months or even years in advance. Or… you could just go to Tivoli. The theme park in the heart of Copenhagen hosts a pop-up restaurant several times a year with Michelin-starred chefs, at unbelievable rates. Keep an eye on its website to see what’s coming up. You can then finish off your night with a ride on one of the world’s oldest rollercoasters.
If you’re looking for more great-value food, Anders & Caitlin and Tipster can point you in the right direction for pop-ups and unique “one night only” experiences.
Bar
It’s also normal to book a table if you’re going out in Copenhagen to drink – some of the bars are small and it’s great to have somewhere to sit. If you love natural wine (or any wine), canalside Ved Stranden 10 in the heart of the city has an excellent choice and a friendly sommelier team. With walls of bottles, scrubbed pine floors and tables spilling out onto the street in the summer, it’s perfect for a group of friends on a long warm night.
When it’s time to move on, walk along the waterfront to Ruby, one of Copenhagen’s oldest bars. The two-floor townhouse cocktail bar pulls off the ultimate bar vibe for me: it’s sophisticated and stylish with charismatic bar staff but still welcoming and relaxed. Cocktails made from banana peel and Danish whisky are among the options on their ever-changing, seasonal menu. The Bartender's Choice Awards nominated their signature “Whisky for Breakfast” as one of Denmark's best cocktails this year. When I last went, I fell for its non-alcoholic version (“No whisky for breakfast”), which had all the serious, sexy vibe of an alcoholic cocktail without the hangover.
