Sep 25, 2024 • 9 min read
Local Strolls: A wander through New Zealand's Christchurch
Aug 1, 2024 • 3 min read
Leave time to wander the speciality stores along New Regent Street on this stroll through the historic centre of Christchurch. Liz Carlson for Lonely Planet
Christchurch, the largest city on New Zealand’s South Island, sprawls between the sea and the Southern Alps. Visitors and locals alike tend to congregate around the CBD (the Central Business District or downtown area). Full of independent, quirky spots, it’s one of the best areas in Christchurch for a leisurely wander.
Although the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that rocked Christchurch (called “Ōtautahi” in the Māori language) forever transformed what was known as the Garden City, it's been going through a process of rebirth since. The constantly changing landscape means new installations, pop-ups and businesses are opening all the time. It's impossible to be bored: Christchurch is a different city with each visit.
Here's a half-day stroll to see the best of the city center.
New Zealand prides itself on its incredible coffee culture, and you are not allowed to skip out on a classic cafe experience in Christchurch. My go-to is Child Sister, which offers unexpected brunch options like kimchi rice omelettes paired with exceptional coffee. It’s a great place to start a walk around town. You can head over to the New Regent Street Quarter next door, a pedestrian area with pastel-colored heritage buildings constructed in a Spanish-Mission style in the 1930s. With a historic tram running through this area, it makes for an iconic Christchurch photo.
Over a decade later, you can still see the scars of the Christchurch earthquakes, including an abundance of gravel parking lots marking where former buildings once stood. Walking towards Hagley Park, you’ll pass many of them. Curious to learn more? Quake City, a special exhibition by the Canterbury Museum (in a separate location from the main museum), delves into those stories and the science behind earthquakes.
All over downtown you’ll find some beautiful street art decorating buildings and ruined walls, many commissioned by some of the world’s best artists. On one side of the Canterbury Museum (currently closed for redevelopment until 2028), you can see an enormous mural of an extinct moa with a kiwi; two of our most iconic and truly weird birds depicted by legendary Belgium street artist ROA.
From here you can already glimpse the sprawling green Hagley Park and Botanic Gardens down the street. Make your way in that direction; you can’t get lost. Instantly, you feel like you’re no longer in the city as you meander through green meadows full of unusual trees, such as the Chilean monkey puzzle trees planted here around the 1860s. There are endless places to lounge in the sunshine and plenty of paths to choose from, but somehow, I always end up right next to the narrow Avon River.
You'll find the iconic white-and-green-striped Antigua Boat Sheds there, where you can rent a boat to go punting up and down the river. I love punting on the Avon, especially in the autumn months (April and May) when the park’s trees turn gold.
Wandering back towards the CBD, you’ll arrive at the sprawling Riverside Market, a buzzy new development that showcases some of the best dining in Canterbury. Think less fresh veg and more street food stalls and bougie shops. There is always so much happening here, any time of day, with food for anyone.
The indoor market stretches outside and merges with the main shopping area. You’ll always find me at Scorpio Books, one of New Zealand’s best independent bookstores. Crossing Hereford Street will bring you to Whiti-reia Cathedral Square, which was badly damaged in the earthquakes but has since been brought back to life. It’s the perfect place to wrap up a long walk around this dynamic city.
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