The ultimate weekend in East Cork, Ireland

When most visitors arrive in County Cork in the south of Ireland, they tend to head straight to the craggy Beara Peninsula in West Cork, with its stunning coastal views, or to the famous pubs and food markets of Cork City. Yet those who venture east from the county capital will find plenty of sights and activities to fill a rewarding weekend – from coastal walks to foodie stops – and fewer fellow visitors to share them with.

I’m a Dubliner, and this visit to East Cork was my first ever venture to the county; I left a few days later, absolutely blown away by the views, the flavors and the friendliness. From stunning cliffside walking and local markets to world-class restaurants and historic buildings, East Cork entices at every bend in the road.

Whether you reach Cork by plane, train or road, here's how to spend an ultimate weekend in East Cork, taking full advantage of its friendly towns and villages and gorgeous scenery.

Before we get into the good stuff, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• When to arrive: Anytime, really; this itinerary is ideal for a weekend, but it would work equally well midweek, when you’re likely to find quieter pubs and restaurants. Weatherwise, the best time to visit this corner of Ireland is during the summer, for warm weather, or in spring or fall to avoid the crowds.

• How to get there: Cork Airport receives flights from across Europe, though many visitors arrive by car, or by train via Cork City's Kent Station – a hub for local commuter trains and intercity services from Dublin and Tralee.

• Getting around: Public transport around County Cork is patchy, so your best bet is to rent a car to give yourself maximum flexibility. If you prefer not to drive, trains run from Cork City to Cobh and Midleton, and local bus routes fan out across the county, but you may struggle to fit everything in over a weekend.

• Where to stay: The easiest places to base yourself are Cork City and larger towns such as Cobh, though most areas in the east are reachable by a short drive. If budget allows, stay at a top-of-the-line property such as the historic Castlemartyr Resort. Otherwise, there are good budget hotels across the area – An Stór Townhouse in Midleton is a good option.

• What to pack: It’s always a good idea to bring a rain jacket (and a backup umbrella), no matter where you go in Ireland, East Cork included. Comfortable walking shoes are also a must.

Friday

Try to get away early for the weekend, so you can start exploring on Friday when the sights are quieter.

How to spend the day: Kick off the fun in Cobh, a small, hilly town on the east side of Cork’s natural harbor. Its charms will grab you immediately, with colorful houses, bright storefronts and the imposing, Gothic-style St Colman's Cathedral (with the tallest spire in Ireland) visible from nearly every part of the town. Find a path downhill, and you’ll end up at the lively seafront.

Bring your walking shoes – some of the paths in Cobh are steep, but wandering along the seashore is an enjoyable way to work up an appetite for lunch in Seasalt, a modern cafe by the seafront near the cathedral. It's open seven days a week, with an ever-changing menu of sandwiches and tasty brunches, alongside incredible cakes.

There are plenty of fun ways to spend an afternoon in Cobh. You can grab a ferry to nearby Spike Island, the site of an old monastic settlement, later a military fortress and then a notorious prison. There’s also the very popular Titanic Experience – Cobh was the final port stop before the Titanic set off for the North Atlantic, and this family-friendly attraction will immerse you in the stories of the 123 passengers who embarked here. Take a stroll along the water here, passing numerous cafes and ice cream shops.

Dinner: For tasty meals prepared with local produce, try the well-known restaurant at Ballymaloe House Hotel for dinner, or the more casual Ballymaloe Cafe, both a 30-minute drive from the center of Cobh. In Ireland, Ballymaloe is synonymous with the renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School, a few miles west at Shanagarry, as well as the Ballymaloe line of sauces, dressings and relishes.

After dark: There are numerous pubs in Cobh where you are almost obliged to try Cork’s own stout – Murphy’s, which any Corkonian will tell you is far superior to Guinness. This particular Dubliner wouldn’t dare to comment (while quietly recommending Beamish, also from Cork, as an alternative). I particularly recommend the cozy and traditional Rob Roy, which has live trad-music sessions, and the Roaring Donkey, a local favorite for atmosphere and more live music.

Saturday

Day two offers a chance to delve into Ireland's whiskey-making heritage.

Morning: Drive to charming Midleton to stretch your legs and burn off some calories after a night enjoying Cobh's hospitality. An old market town, Midleton is today a lively spot with plenty of brunch options. Down a side street, atmospheric Montys is a good choice for either brunch or lunch, with excellent and filling toasties, sandwiches and salads, along with very good coffee (I recommend filling up before setting off to taste some top-notch whiskeys).

How to spend the day: Jameson Whiskey's famous Midleton Distillery has recently been renovated, and you can explore on an enjoyable whiskey tour. The ultra-modern distillery is where each and every bottle of Jameson sold around the world has been distilled, along with plenty of other whiskey brands.

Choose a tour depending on your level of interest in the finer details of distilling. I joined the Behind the Scenes tour for a deep dive into the whiskey-making process, from malting the barley to the various barrels that can be used for maturation. Expect to learn a lot about distillation techniques, flavor profiles and blending – and enjoy a few tastings.

Relax and recharge after a day of eating and drinking by dropping into the fabulous five-star Castlemartyr Resort, a massive complex centered on a ruined castle, with a golf course and driving range, a spa and health center and numerous restaurants and bars, plus top-tier service and gorgeous rooms. Expect a restorative break and the best of Corkonian hospitality.

Dinner: Under 10 minutes from the Jameson distillery, Roastie is the perfect spot for a fill-up after trialing all those whiskeys. With incredible burgers, delicious sides and massive portions, it’s also great value.

After dark: You may not need more alcohol, but Midleton has some friendly pubs if you feel so inclined. JJ Coppinger's has trad music and a lounge bar vibe, while Wallis' Bar is more traditional.

Sunday

Use the day of rest to enjoy the fresh air and scenery in East Cork.

Morning: The Ballycotton Cliff Walk is a wonderful way to blow away the cobwebs on a Sunday morning. Beginning at the bottom of the small coastal town of Ballycotton, the walk winds around the coast for 5 miles, with a couple of different loops taking you inland.

Expect gorgeous views of the ocean and the shore as you navigate the exposed cliffs along narrow paths (wear appropriate footwear). Look out for the Ballycotton Lighthouse, built in the 1840s on an island at the tip of the headland; Ballycotton Sea Adventures offers tours to the island by boat.

The Cliff Walk is also a popular bird trail for twitchers on the lookout for choughs, peregrine falcons and seabirds. Benches dotted along the path provide the opportunity to rest, should that be required.

How to spend the day: There are several lunch options in the area. Right by Ballycotton Pier, the Salty Dog serves up modern Irish dishes featuring fresh local produce and straight-off-the-boats seafood. The rooms are worth checking out, too, if you fancy a seaside base for exploring East Cork. Alternatively, head on to the historic seaport of Youghal (“Yawl”) and enjoy a tasty traditional pub roast in the Red Store.

Youghal’s history is fascinating – Sir Walter Raleigh was mayor in the 16th century, and years later, rebellions and uprisings were quashed by Oliver Cromwell. The town brims with old buildings, including the Clock Gate Tower, the town walls dating from 1250 and Tynte’s Castle, a 15th-century tower house once used as a garrison and prison.

Dinner: For a last-day dinner or drink, the Blackbird on Ballycotton's main street offers pub meals, live music, and a spacious beer garden.

Discover even more in East Cork

All this is only the tip of the iceberg of East Cork. If you have more time, there are plenty of other adventures to discover. Fota Wildlife Park near Cobh is a great choice for anyone visiting with kids, while the Knockadoon Cliff Walk and Glenbower Woods will appeal to anyone in search of a quiet stroll. Those looking to stay active will love the area's gorgeous cycling routes, with a particularly nice greenway from Midleton to Youghal.

Should you have the time and energy, it’s worth delving further west toward the craggy peninsulas along the Wild Atlantic Way, stopping off for some seafood from Kinsale and black pudding from Clonakilty en route – always making sure, of course, to enjoy the cozy pubs you’ll find tucked away everywhere in this stunning part of the country.

Amy Lynch traveled to Cork at the invitation of the Midleton Distillery Experience. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.