The brilliantly renovated round-towered 'temple' in pretty Kiş village has been lovingly converted into a very well-presented trilingual museum. It’s the best place anywhere to learn about mysterious Caucasian Albania, the Christian nation that once covered most of northern Azerbaijan. In fact, the church site goes back well beyond the Christian era and glass-covered grave excavations allow visitors to peer down onto Bronze Age skeletons.
To find the church, take the first climbing lane that doubles back to the right after Kiş’ main street becomes cobbled and climb an 800m loop (there are signs). At a charming cafe opposite the entrance you might meet site director İlhamə Hüseynova, who organises homestays in the village and at her own little guesthouse.