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Fans at stall, El Rastro Market, La Latina.
20232-32
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Madrid

The Spanish capital is one of Europe’s liveliest, friendliest and most engaging cities. Come for the show-stopping galleries, marvelous palaces and buzzing barrios (neighborhoods). Stay for the fabulous food, dynamic markets, revitalized green spaces and non-stop nightlife.

Madrid

Day 1

A taste of Madrid's history, arts and culture

Sample a taste of Madrid by exploring its opulent palace and its grandest square. Shop your way through its unique boutiques and fuel up on goodies from the market before savoring one of Madrid's favorite indulgences, chocolate con churros. Admire the city's most beloved church and finish with a flamenco show paired with Michelin-starred food.

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    • Calle de Bailén

    With more than 3000 rooms, El Palacio Real is one of the largest palaces in the world. You’ll only see a fraction of these on your visit, but it’s more than enough to satisfy. From its swirling chinoiserie to its sky-blue ceilings populated by cherubs, eagles and subjects from around the globe, the experience is the visual equivalent of swallowing an entire Black Forest gateau at once.

    Though the current royal family doesn’t live here, the presence of the Bourbons is keenly felt in royal portraits hung up on damask walls. The best canvas on display, however, is Caravaggio’s haunting Salome with the Head of John the Baptist, which can be found towards the end of the tour before you get to the magnificent throne room.

  • Plaza Mayor is the hub of Madrid’s most medieval quarter. It’s a place both to admire and to get your bearings, where so many explorations of the neighborhood (and city) begin. It’s at once the hub of local life and the topographical high point of the barrio (district).

    Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century during the reign of Philip III. The surrounding architecture is in a uniform Herrerian style, with slate spires, ochre apartments and 237 wrought-iron balconies. Over the centuries, the plaza has witnessed many historic events and public spectacles, like bullfights, executions and theatrical performances. During the Spanish Inquisition, heretics were condemned in autos-da-fé rituals, followed by public executions. More joyous events like royal weddings also took place in the plaza.

    Now, locals and tourists alike gather here to dine at outdoor cafes, watch street performers, or attend concerts and festivals. Some highlights of Plaza Mayor include the frescoes of the Real Casa de la Panadería, with mythological figures against a backdrop of zodiac signs. The equestrian statue of Philip III in the center is a popular meeting point. Stop by Chocolatería de San Ginés, which is famous for serving chocolate con churros any time of day. Major landmarks near the plaza include the Mercado de San Miguel, the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Almudena, the Muralla Árabe (Arab Wall) and Plaza de Oriente.

  • The Basílica de San Francisco El Grande is a leading candidate for the title of Madrid’s favorite church, far more so than the rather sterile cathedral. Legend has it that St Francis of Assisi built a chapel on this site in 1217. The current version was designed by Francesco Sabatini in the 18th century.

    The basilica has an unusual circular floor plan and is known for its iconic dome, which is the largest in Spain and the fourth largest in the world. The circular nave is surrounded by chapels adorned with frescoes in different historical styles. One of the most famous chapels is the Capilla de San Bernardino, which features a fresco painted by Francisco Goya early in his career. Unusually, Goya painted himself into the scene as the figure in the yellow shirt on the right side. The basilica also contains other notable artworks such as paintings by Francisco de Zurbarán and Francisco Pacheco.

Day 2

Madrid's top art museums

Admire the art of greats like Velázquez and Goya at one of Madrid's finest museums, the Prado, with plenty of chances to fuel up on delicious tapas in nearby haunts. Relax in the evening with a jazz show in a bar.

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  • Plaza de Santa Ana is a destination in its own right, a stirringly beautiful square that’s emblematic of a city intent on living the good life. Laid out in 1810 during the controversial reign of Joseph Bonaparte, it gave breathing space to what had hitherto been one of Madrid’s most claustrophobic barrios. The plaza became a focal point for the intellectual life of the day, and the cafes surrounding it thronged with writers and artists engaging in endless tertulias (literary and philosophical discussions).

    The plaza is home to statues honoring the 17th-century writer Pedro Calderón de la Barca and poet Federico García Lorca. The eastern side of the plaza is anchored by the Teatro Español, an important theater dating back to the 16th century. This is also a place of many moods. On a sunny weekday afternoon, it can be quiet (by its own rather noisy standards), a place to nurse a wine as you plot your path through the city. This is when the Barrio de las Letras is also at its most accessible, its streets suitably sedate for a barrio (district) filled with literary resonance. But come most nights of the week, Santa Ana and the surrounding streets crescendo into life, an explosion of noise and revelry that ripples out across the city. It's the perfect spot to start a long night out in the Huertas area, with sherry bars, wine bars, rooftop lounges, and nightclubs nearby.

    • Paseo del Prado

    The Museo del Prado is one of the world's premier art galleries. Home to some of Spain’s most incredible masterpieces, the collection acts as a window into the historical vagaries of the Spanish soul. Inside you’ll find the grand, imperious royal paintings by Velázquez, Goya's dark, tumultuous Black Paintings, as well as sophisticated works of art from across Europe.

    The Prado's western wing, the Edificio Villanueva, was completed in 1785 in the neoclassical style. It originally served as a cavalry barracks during the Napoleonic occupation from 1808-1813. In 1814, King Fernando VII decided to convert the palace into an art museum, which opened in 1819. The Prado’s eastern wing (Edificio Jerónimos) is part of the museum’s stunning modern extension. Dedicated to temporary exhibitions (usually to display Prado masterpieces held in storage for decades for lack of wall space), its main attraction is the 2nd-floor cloisters. Built in 1672 with local granite, the cloisters were until recently attached to the adjacent Iglesia de San Jerónimo El Real.

    All told the Prado holds more than 7,000 paintings, though only around 1,500 are on display at any time. It is home to the largest collection of works by Velázquez, including his masterpiece Las Meninas, completed in 1656. It depicts Velázquez himself on the left, painting the king and queen. The rooms around Las Meninas contain more fine works by the artist, especially his paintings of Spanish royalty. The museum also holds a premier collection of works by Goya, which can be found on all three floors. His famous paintings El dos de Mayo and El Tres de Mayo, depicting the 1808 revolt against French forces, are emblematic of Madrid. Visitors can see Goya's disturbing Black Paintings, named for their distorted figures and dark palette. In addition, the Prado also contains paintings by El Greco, Bosch, Rubens, Rembrandt, Titian, Raphael, Sorolla, and other European masters. Within the famed Flemish collection, you’ll find the weird and wonderful The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch (c 1450-1516), which cannot be missed.

    The museum has a timed entry system; tickets and timeslots can be booked online for €15.

Day 3

Art and cocktails in historic Madrid

Discover Madrid's vibrant art scene, from Goya's first frescoes to Picasso's anti-war masterpiece. Admire a piece of Egyptian history in the heart of Madrid. Dine at one of the city's most creative restaurants and sip inventive cocktails in a 1930s bar that inspired Hemingway and Sinatra.

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    • Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5

    In a small, nondescript hermitage in 1798, Goya painted a series of frescoes under royal orders; these extraordinary paintings remain exactly where he first created them. Breathtaking in their vivid portrayal of Madrid life and the Miracle of St Anthony, they’re worth the trip, as it’s one of the few places to see Goya's work in its original setting.

    The church is so popular that a replica has been built beside it, meaning visitors gawping at the impressive ceiling don’t inadvertently bump into the faithful at prayer. This southern chapel is not only home to breathtaking frescoes, but also holds the bones of the artist. Goya's remains were transferred in 1919 from Bordeaux, France, where he died in exile in 1828, to be buried in front of the altar in the Ermita. Oddly, the skeleton exhumed in Bordeaux was missing the head, which was never found.

    • Paseo del Pintor Rosales

    Perched high above the city in a leafy setting, this ancient temple is an arresting sight. A gift to thank Spain for its help preserving the Abu Simbel temples in Egypt, this 2nd-century BCE temple is dedicated to the god Amun and the goddess Isis. Incredibly, the entire structure was taken from the Nile and reconstructed stone by stone in Cuartel de la Montaña Park before being opened to the public in 1972.

    The interior is rather cramped, but entry is free and a visit won’t take any longer than 30 minutes. If you time it right, you’ll be able to catch the last rays of the sun turning the palace and cathedral a pretty pink from the nearby viewpoint.

  • The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza houses an outstanding private collection of predominantly European art across a breadth of artistic styles. It is part of Madrid's Golden Triangle of art museums, along with the Prado and Reina Sofía. The museum is housed in the beautifully converted Palacio de Villahermosa, designed by architect Rafael Moneo. It appeals to varied artistic tastes, with medieval religious paintings, Renaissance portraits, 19th-century landscapes, and modern masterpieces all under one roof.

    The pieces span centuries and include work by Tintoretto, El Greco, Van Gogh, Cézanne, Miró, Kandinsky, Monet, and so many more. With such richness and variety, the Thyssen is a place to immerse yourself in the incredible breadth and evolution of European art across the centuries.

    • Calle Santa Isabel, 52

    Home to arguably Spain's most famous artwork, Pablo Picasso's 1937 painting Guernica, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is Madrid's premier museum of 20th-century and contemporary art. From modern greats like Dalí, Picasso and Miró to cutting-edge contemporary work in new media, this gallery is sure to delight fans of the avant-garde.

    The museum uses a theme-based approach, so works by a given artist may be spread across multiple floors. Picasso's Guernica is always located in Room 206 on the 2nd floor. Other highlights include Dalí's surrealist painting The Great Masturbator; Miró's bright, colorful paintings that became symbols of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics; and cubist works by Juan Gris and Georges Braque. The museum showcases paintings, sculptures, and sketches by lesser-known 20th-century Spanish artists as well.

    The building itself is an important architectural landmark in Madrid. It is housed in a converted 18th-century hospital and features an eye-catching extension designed by Jean Nouvel that hosts temporary exhibitions, auditoriums, a bookshop, a cafe, and the museum library.

    If you have the time, the €18 two-day ticket allows you to take it all in; otherwise, cover the highlights with a one-day €12 ticket. The museum is free some evenings, so check the details. El Brillante, a popular nearby bar known for its bocadillos (filled rolls), is located just outside the museum.

Day 4

Spectacular architecture and a flamenco show

Marvel at the architecture of Madrid's spectacular Plaza de Toros bullfighting arena, with its stunning neo-Mudéjar style. Stop for a vermouth in an atmospheric tavern before taking in a flamenco show. Finish with dinner at the world's oldest restaurant.

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    • Calle de Alcalá 237

    Madrid’s finest neo-Mudéjar building, Las Ventas is the product of an architectural fad that swept Spain from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. Designed by architect José Espelius and completed in 1931, the enormous arena absorbs influences from medieval and modern Islamic architecture, with horseshoe arches, patterned brickwork and beautiful tiling, elevating it into something truly spectacular.

    Impressive as it is inside and out, it’s a shame that visitors must pay €14.90 for a peek, particularly as the audio tour makes no concessions to those who may have reservations about bullfighting. As bullfighting is strongly opposed by organizations such as PETA, this is a serious omission. Bombastic music accompanies detailed explanations of the sport and videos of toreros in action. More disturbing perhaps is the sight of taxidermied bulls of yore rigidly displaying their wounds accompanied by the sound of bells clanking around the necks of doomed animals from the bowels of the building.

    Though the tour might give you another impression, bullfighting is in decline. It has been banned in Catalonia, and in Madrid, people are divided on the subject. When you sound madrileños out, you will hear passionate arguments both for and against. If you fall in the latter camp, we advise satisfying yourself with a look at the exterior; or, if you’re really determined to look inside, see if any concerts are being held in the venue.

Day 5

Flea market shopping, tapas and the theater

Start your Sunday at Madrid's most beloved flea market, El Rastro, before following the madrileños to sample wine and tapas at a popular post-shopping spot. Take in a unique Spanish theater performance before enjoying homestyle dishes in a storied spot loved by locals, celebrities and even royalty.

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    • Calle de la Ribera de los Curtidores

    A Sunday morning at El Rastro flea market, Europe’s largest, is a Madrid institution. You could easily spend the entire morning inching your way down the hill and the maze of streets.

    Specializing in cheap clothes and antiques, endless bargains are waiting to be found. The crowded Sunday flea market was, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, largely a meat market (rastro means ‘stain,’ in reference to the trail of blood left behind by animals dragged down the hill). The road leading through the market, Calle de la Ribera de los Curtidores, translates as ‘Tanners’ Alley' and further evokes this sense of a slaughterhouse past.

    On Sunday mornings, it’s the place to be, with all of Madrid here in search of a bargain. Antiques are also a major draw to the area, with a concentration of stores at Nuevas Galerías and Galerías Piquer; most shops are open 10 am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 8 pm Monday to Saturday, but not all are open during El Rastro. A word of warning: pickpockets love El Rastro as much as everyone else, so keep a tight hold on your belongings and don’t keep valuables in easy-to-reach pockets.

Day 6

Incredible views and classic cuisine

Take in Madrid's grandeur from the 7th floor of the Círculo de Bellas Artes. From there, stop in at Madrid's prestigious fine arts academy and gallery, where many of the country's best artists mastered their craft. Next, dine like Pablo Neruda once did at the classic La Carmencita, before taking in a Flamenco show.

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  • The stunning, French-designed Edificio Metrópolis marks the southern end of Gran Vía in Madrid. Upon its rooftop, you’ll find a winged victory statue of the Greek goddess Nike, which almost seems to be greeting the Roman goddess Minerva, who stands guard on the roof of the Círculo de Bellas. When it originally opened in 1911, this beaux-arts building had a phoenix sitting atop the dome, but this statue was removed when the property changed hands in 1972, with the new owners, Metropolis Insurance, rechristening the building Edificio Metrópolis. It is magnificent when floodlit, and for some, it's Madrid's most beautiful building.

    • Calle de Alcalá 42

    Founded in 1880, this artistic institution got its impressive headquarters in 1926. Like many of the monumental buildings in the area, it was designed by Antonio Palacios, the architect responsible for the nearby Palacio de Cibeles and the Instituto Cervantes. For some of Madrid’s best views, take the lift to the 7th floor of the ‘Fine Arts Circle.’ You can almost reach out and touch the glorious dome of the Edificio Metrópolis and otherwise take in Madrid in all its finery, including the distant mountains. Two bars, lounge music and places to recline add to the experience.

    Downstairs, the center has exhibitions, concerts, short films and book readings. On the ground floor, you will find a wonderful belle-époque cafe that Palacios also designed in 1919. It boasts chandeliers and the charm of a bygone era. When visiting, remember that it’s generally closed between 2 pm to 5 pm. Exhibition entrance fees include access to the azotea (rooftop). Buy tickets from vending machines in the lobby.

  • The Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando in Madrid is the city's prestigious fine arts academy and gallery. Founded in the 18th century by King Fernando VI, it has nurtured generations of Spanish artists and houses a rich collection of paintings. Highlights include Zurbarán's series of portraits of friars, El Greco's San Jerónimo, and 13 pieces by Goya, including self-portraits and portraits of King Fernando VII.

    Though not as extensive as the Prado or Reina Sofía, the collection offers a fascinating insight into Spanish art history. The pantheon of former students includes many of Spain's most famous artists ⁠— Picasso and Dalí studied there but found it too traditional. Nonetheless, the academy has played a pivotal role in Madrid's artistic life for centuries.

Day 7

Football, fashion and live music

Spend a day seeing the many sides of Madrid: experience Real Madrid's legendary stadium tour and marvel at a stunning private art collection. Shop bold fashions from a beloved designer, savor patatas bravas and vermouth in a vintage tiled tavern and rock out to live bands in a storied music venue.

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    • Calle de Serrano 122

    This imposing early-20th-century Italianate stone mansion, set discreetly back from the street, belonged to Don José Lázaro Galdiano (1862-1947), a successful businessman and passionate patron of the arts. His astonishing private art collection, which he bequeathed to the city upon his death, is housed here. It includes 13,000 works of art and objets d'art, a quarter of which are on display at any time.

    The collection's highlights include works by Francisco de Zurbarán, Claudio Coello, Hieronymus Bosch, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, El Greco, Lucas Cranach and John Constable. There’s even a painting in Room 11 attributed to Diego Rodríguez de Silva Velázquez. Goya dominates Room 13, while the ceiling of Room 14 features a collage from some of his more famous works. This remarkable collection ranges beyond paintings to sculptures, bronzes, miniature figures, jewelry, ceramics, furniture and weapons, clearly reflecting Galdiano 's wide interests.

    The lovely 1st floor contains many Spanish artworks arrayed around the former ballroom beneath lavishly frescoed ceilings. The 2nd floor has works by Italian, Flemish, English and French painters. The top floor is filled with curiosities and ephemera, including exquisite textiles in Room 24. The museum's labeling is excellent, appearing in both English and Spanish with photos of each room.

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