This town, a short drive from Tarapoto, is remarkable in the way that it is split into two distinct halves with mestizo (person of mixed indigenous and Spanish descent) residents positioned on the upper plateau while the indigenous community resides on the lower. A large faux-European castle has been constructed on the edge of the upper town, a bizarre sight that serves to reinforce the weird colonial vibe.
The large indigenous population of Lamas has a strong folkloric tradition manifested in music and dance and celebrates an annual Feast of Santa Rosa de Lima in the last week of August. The local Museo Chanka y de la Diversidad Lamista explains the origins of the festival and other distinct elements of the folkloric culture.
It's very easy to visit the town on your own; minibuses and colectivos (shared transportation; S5, 30 minutes) leave for Lamas regularly from the 10th cuadra (block) of Jirón Urgarte. Alternatively, three-hour guided tours from Tarapoto cost around S35.