In the village of Sezhd (Km71), a tough, easily missed 4WD track spirals up and over a dusty ridge finally petering out after 6km in the green, very disparate hamlet of Durum (population 12). From here a 40-minute walk from the road's end (crossing a tree-trunk bridge almost immediately) leads to a fine viewpoint overlooking the vivid aquamarine lake of Durum-Kul. On the return route, there are some grand views of 6000m peaks on the southern horizon.